پیوندهای مفید
اخبار و اعلانات
آمار
| تعداد نشریات | 158 |
| تعداد شماره‌ها | 6,226 |
| تعداد مقالات | 67,695 |
| تعداد مشاهده مقاله | 115,006,701 |
| تعداد دریافت فایل اصل مقاله | 89,688,177 |
طراحی پایدار پوشاک دختران با استفاده از ضایعات کشاورزی و زائدات پارچه‌ها (مطالعۀ موردی: دانشکدۀ هنر دانشگاه سمنان) | ||
| زن در توسعه و سیاست | ||
| دوره 21، شماره 1، فروردین 1402، صفحه 164-139 اصل مقاله (632.27 K) | ||
| نوع مقاله: مقاله پژوهشی | ||
| شناسه دیجیتال (DOI): 10.22059/jwdp.2022.344977.1008227 | ||
| نویسندگان | ||
| معصومه جرجانی1؛ سمیه باصری* 2؛ فریده آفرین1 | ||
| 1گروه پژوهش هنر، دانشکدۀ هنر، دانشگاه سمنان، سمنان، ایران | ||
| 2گروه طراحی و چاپ پارچه، دانشکدۀ هنر، دانشگاه سمنان، سمنان، ایران | ||
| چکیده | ||
| کشور ایران مانند بسیاری از کشورهای درحال‌توسعه در معرض تهدیدهای زیست‌محیطی قرار دارد. با توجه به نقش مهم زنان در مدیریت منابع پایدار در خانواده، با نیم‌نگاهی به حضور پررنگ آن‌ها در جامعه و همچنین سهم فعلی‌شان در نظام آموزشی کشور، توانمندسازی آنان در بحث توسعۀ پایدار و طراحی پوشاک برای آن‌ها براساس معیارهای محیط‌زیستی، حائز اهمیت است. هدف از این پژوهش این است که با استفاده از ضایعات کشاورزی برای رنگرزی و زائدات پارچه‌ها در طراحی و دوخت پوشاک اجتماعی زنان یعنی مانتو، متناسب با زیرساخت‌ها و امکانات موجود در کشور و با تکیه بر فرهنگ اصیل گذشته در جهت توسعۀ پایدار گامی برداشته شود. در پژوهش حاضر با روش توصیفی-پیمایشی، کنش رفتاری و ذهنیت مصرف‌کنندگان نسبت به مؤلفه‌های طراحی از طریق پرسشنامه در میان دختران دانشکدۀ هنر دانشگاه سمنان ارزیابی می‌شود. حجم نمونه 102 نفر است که با روش نمونه‌گیری تصادفی ساده انتخاب شدند. نتایج نشان داد همۀ مؤلفه‌های مانتوهای طراحی‌شده به غیر از مؤلفۀ اندامی‌بودن، توسط جامعۀ آماری پذیرفته شده و میزان آگاهی دختران از اصول توسعۀ پایدار پوشاک، بر میزان رضایتمندی آن‌ها از طراحی‌های انجام‌شده اثر مثبت دارد. این موضوع ضرورت برنامه‌ریزی بیشتر در این زمینه را نشان می‌دهد. | ||
| کلیدواژه‌ها | ||
| پوشاک؛ توسعۀ پایدار؛ رنگرزی سنتی؛ زنان؛ ضایعات | ||
| عنوان مقاله [English] | ||
| Female Students Sustainable Clothing Design via Agricultural Waste and Fabric Scraps (Case Study: Art Faculty of Semnan University) | ||
| نویسندگان [English] | ||
| Masoumeh Jorjany1؛ Somayeh Baseri2؛ Farideh Afarin1 | ||
| 1Department of Art, Semnan University, Semnan, Iran | ||
| 2Department of Art, Faculty of Textile Design and Printing, Semnan University, Semnan, Iran | ||
| چکیده [English] | ||
| The world bank estimates that almost 20% of industrial water pollution is caused by textile industry. Chemical dyes have used in dyeing industries once they have good fastness properties, are resistance, and show wide range of color shades. Considering the environmental concerns, these colorants have certain disadvantages such as they are toxic, non-degradable, and carcinogenic. On the other hand, fabric and clothing industries are major sources of environmental pollution especially in developing countries such as Iran. The mass consumption of clothing and also their common methods of design and production have led to increased environmental pollution due to the disposal of vast amounts of non-biodegradable wastes, ultimately faced the country with several problems. As a result, new approaches are going to be developed to renewing the use of scrap and waste materials in clothing production aimed at safeguarding the environment. The use of waste agricultural dyes is also an environmentally friendly alternative, since they are non-carcinogenic, less toxic, biodegradable, and produced by cleaner production processes. The question that arises is whether clothing design and production processes can be improved based on the facilities of the country in accordance with the sustainable development principles. It appears that empowerment of women in sustainable development topics can be an ideal solution for achieving this goal. What support this idea is the women impact on the sustainable source management, social communication, and the country’s education system. The purpose of the current research is to design and produce the women social clothing by using the fabric scraps and agricultural waste dyes. In terms of the type of study and in terms of the practical purpose, the method of present study is a descriptive-survey way and its purpose is an "applied" one. The instrument used for data collection was a questionnaire. In this way, this work was produced four women social clothing by dying the fabrics with chamomile colorant and the peels of pomegranate, walnut, and onion and also by using the fabric scraps. The reflection of this design method was examined among the female students of BA and MA courses in carpet, textile design and printing, art research, and handicrafts industry from the art faculty of Semnan university. A sample size of 102 students was chosen using a simple random sampling. SPSS software was used to analyze the data. The findings obtained from this study showed that women has a positive and important effect on the sustainable development in environmental issues and the increasing women’s awareness and capacities in this context is necessary. This research also indicates that the components of designed garment exception of the body characteristics are accepted by the statistical community. The results also show a positive relationship between the girls' awareness of the principles of sustainable clothing development and their satisfaction with the designs done. | ||
| کلیدواژه‌ها [English] | ||
| Clothing, Sustainable Development, Traditional Dyeing, Women, Waste | ||
| مراجع | ||
|
Afrooz, S., & Jafarnia, G. H. (2018). The effect of environmental attitudes on environmental behaviors (Study: Residents of Tehran. Journal of Regional Planning, 8(30), 115-126. https://dorl.net/dor/20.1001.1.22516735.1397.8.30.9.9 (In Persian) Afsharzadeh, N., & Papzan, A. (2012). Women's Indigenous Knowledge in Process of Sustainable Development of Farming. Woman in Development & Politics, 9(4), 115-133. (In Persian) Akbari, H. (2012). The Role of Women in Sustainable Development of the Environment. Woman in Development & Politics, 10(4), 27-56. https://doi.org/10.22059/jwdp.2013.30574 (In Persian) Akpabio, I. A. (2007). Women NGO’s and the socio-economic status of rural women in Akwa Ibom state, Nigeria. Journal of Agriculture and Social Sciences, 3(1), 1-6. Alavi, L. (2021). A new interpretation of women's environmental behavior: importing gender inequality. Journal of Economic & Developmental Sociology, 10(2), 91-110. https://doi.org/10.22034/JEDS.2021.41685.1458 (In Persian) Ataat, J., Sarafi, M., Dezhpasand, F., Dini Turkmani, A., Saree Al Qalam, A., Mahmoudi, V., & Hadi Zenour, B. (2012). The Basics of sustainable development in Iran. Tehran: Sicence. (In Persian) Ayele, M., Tesfaye, T., Mengistie, D. A. & Limeneh, M. (2020). Natural Dyeing of Cotton Fabric with Extracts from Mango Tree: A Step Towards Sustainable Dyeing, Sustainable Chemistry and Pharmacy, 17, 100293. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scp.2020.100293 Bahaee M., Perez-Batres, L. A., Pisani, M. J., Miller, V. V. & Saremi, M. (2014). Sustainable Development in Iran: An Exploratory Study of University Students’ Attitudes and knowledge about Sustainable Development, Corporate Social Responsibility and Environmental Management, 21(3), 175-187. https://doi.org/10.1002/csr.1312 Barati, M. (1994). The policies declines of clothing and consumeris. Tehran: Research Design of Broadcasting Organization. (In Persian) Baseri, S (2022). Ecological Dyeing of Cotton Fabric with Matricaria recutita L. in the Presence of Human Hair Keratins as an Alternative Copartner to Metallic Mordants. Sustainable Materials and Technologies, 32, e00405. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.susmat.2022.e00405 Bonnet, M. (2003). Education for Sustainable Development Sustainability as a Frame of Mind. Journal of Philosophy of Educaation, 37(4), 675-690. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.0309-8249.2003.00355.x Davari, R., Talebpoor, F., Dadvar, A., & Afhami, R. (2016). Female students’ awareness toward sustainable purchase consumption of clothing (Case study: Art faculty of Alzahra University). Journal of Woman in Culture and Art, 8(2), 281-300. https://doi.org/10.22059/jwica.2016.60319 (In Persian) Farbod, F. (2014). The Aesthetics of Eco Sustainable Approaches in Textile Design. Honar-Ha-Ye-Ziba: Honar-Ha-Ye-Tajassomi, 19(3), 65-76. https://doi.org/10.22059/JFAVA.2014.55413 (In Persian) Gifford, R., & Nilsson, A. (2014). Personal and Social Factors that Influence Pro-environmental Concern and Behaviour: A Review. International Journal of Psychology, 49(3), 141-157. https://doi.org/10.1002/ijop.12034 Hemayatkhah Jahromi, M., Ershad, F., Danesh, P., & Ghorbani, M. (2017). Sociological Study of Relationship between Knowledge, Attitudes and Environmental Behaviors (A Study on Tehran University Students). Social Problems of Iran (Journal of Kharazmi University), 8(1), 5-25. https://doi.org/20.1001.1.24766933.1396.8.1.1.9 (In Persian) Hicks, J. R. (1964). Value and Capital. Oxford: Oxford University Press. Kennedy, E. H., & Kmec, J. (2018). Reinterpreting the Gender Gap in Household Proenvironmental Behaviour, Environmental Sociology, 4(3), 299-310. https://doi.org/10.1080/23251042.2018.1436891 King, J. E., & J. E. Workman (1996), Socially Responsible Consumption Behavior, Perceived Consumer Effectiveness and Textile Konledge. Annual Conference of the International Textile and Apparel Association. Canada, Banff. Mainieri, T., Barnett, E., Valdero, T., Unipan, J. & Oskamp S. (1997). Green Byeing: The Influence of Environmental Concern on Consumer Behaviour, Journal of Theoretical Social Psychology, 137, 189-204. https://doi.org/10.1080/00224549709595430 Mirjalili, M.; Nazarpoor, K. & Karimi, L. (2011). Eco-friendly Dyeing of Wool using Natural Dye from Weld as Co-partner with Synthetic Dye. Journal of Cleaner Production, 19, 1045-1051. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2011.02.001 Mohammadi Far, N., & Moradi, A. (2021). Women’s political empowerment and environmental behaviors (Case study: Kermanshah city). Woman in development & politics, 19(3), 429-454. https://doi.org/10.22059/jwdp.2021.321697.1007992 (In Persian) Momeni, M., & Ghayoumi, A. (2015). Statistical analysis using SPSS. Tehran: Ganj Shayan. (In Persian) Niaghi, O. (2019). The role of women and their empowerment in environmentally sustainable development. Journal of Environmental Sciences Studies, 4(2), 1328-1339. (In Persian) Pezzey John C. V. (2004). Sustainability Policy and Environmental Policy. The Scandinavian Journal of Economics, 106(2), 339-359. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-9442.2004.00355.x Pourjamshidi, H., Mahdizadeh, H., Gholamrezaee, S., & Shir, N. (2016). Effective Factors on Sustainable Consumption Behavior Tendency: The Case Study of Khorramabad. Environmental Education and Sustainable Development, 4(4), 64-55. https://doi.org/20.1001.1.23223057.1395.4.4.5.3 (In Persian) Raanai Kordsholi, H., & Alahyari Bozgani, A. (2013). Investigating the effect of consumer's environmental responsibility on their green purchase decision. Ethics in Science and Technology, 8(3), 32-42. https://doi.org/20.1001.1.22517634.1392.8.3.5.6 (In Persian) Ramstetter, L., & Habersack, F. (2020). Do women make a difference? analysing environmental attitudes and actions of members of the European parliament. Environmental Politics, 29(6), 1063-1084. https://doi.org/10.1080/09644016.2019.1609156 Ratner Blake, D. (2004). Sustainability as a dialogue of values: challenges to the sociology of development, Sociological Inquiry, 74(1), 50-69. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1475-682X.2004.00079.x Rezayi, H., & Mosavi, S. Z. (2021). Investigating the history of Iranian handwoven fabrics and their use in today's fashion industry. The first national conference on clothing, textile and clothing desig. Shiraz. (In Persian) Rezvani Ahangar kolaee, H., Talebpour, F., & Javadi, S. (2021). The impact of Teaching Sustainable Development Principles on the Design Performance of Students Studying Fashion Design. Journal of Program and Development Research, 2(1), 143-156. https://doi.org/10.22034/PBR.2021.129157 (In Persian) Saint Akadiri, S., Alola, A. A., & Akadiri, A. C. (2019). The Role of Globalization, Real Income, Tourism in Environmental Sustainability Target. Evidence from Turkey, Science of the Total Environment, 687, 423-432. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scitotenv.2019.06.139 Salehi, M, Mousavi, M., & Kashkooli, A. B. (2014). Assessment and Classification of Environmental Problems Based on Sustainable Development Indexes (Case Study: Cities of Yazd Province), Journal of Civil Engineering and Urbanism, 4(2), 110 -119. Shen, D., Richards, J. & Feng, L. (2013). Consumers’ Awareness of Sustainable Fashion, The Marketing Management Journal, 23(2), 134-147. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/272481810 Sinaii, B. (2006). Production of non-woven fabrics from recycled fibers. Textile and clothing industry Monthly, 35(280), 77-80. (In Persian) Souza, C., Taghian, M., Lamb, P. & R. Peretiatk (2007). Decisions: Demographics and Consumer Understanding of Environmental Labels, International Journal of Consumer Studies, 31, 371-376. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1470-6431.2006.00567.x Talebpour, F., & Davari, R. (2018). Sustainable textiles and clothing with an environmental attitude. Tehran: Al- Zahra University. (In Persian) Weigel, R. H. (1983). Environmental Attitudes and the Prediction of Behavior, Environmental Psychology: Directions and perspectives, Feimer N. R. and Geller E. S. (Eds.), New York: Preager. Xiao, C., & McCright, A. M. (2012). Explaining Gender Differences in Concern about Environmental Problems in the United States. Society and Natural Resources, 25(11), 1067-1084. https://doi.org/10.1080/08941920.2011.651191 Young, T., & Burton, M. P. (1998). Agricultural sustainability, its definition and implications in commercial and agricultural policy. Translated by: M. Tashakori. Tehran: Planning and Agricultural Economy Research Institute. (In Persian) Zahedi, Sh. A. S. (2012). Sustainable Development. Tehran: Samt. (In Persian) Zahedi, Sh. A. S., & Najafi, Gh. A. (2006). Sustainable development, a new conceptual framework. Modarres Human Sciences, 10(4), 43-76. https://sid.ir/paper/6827/fa (In Persian) | ||
|
آمار تعداد مشاهده مقاله: 303 تعداد دریافت فایل اصل مقاله: 169 |
||